Once everything is added and the mixture traces simply pour it into your lined mould. The conditions and humidity that the soap is being made in can effect the final product; fragrances oils, measuring accurately, how it is left to cure etc. I was curious to see your thoughts on what recipes might be good or comparable to Dr. Bronner’s for laundry and if I should use butters or not? It’s rather confusing but I want to make sure that I’m doing this by the book, I know it can be all a bit confusing, but you are on the right track. Also, what value does cocoa butter give to the soap? 1 Tbsp. I will incorporate the colors in your moisture recipe. I know that when we label our soaps, we cannot put any type of claims such as ‘Anti-aging’ and stuff like that. Hi, (sorry – complete beginner!) -Becky with Bramble Berry, Hi! I would love to try your Moisturizing recipe and have everything but Jojoba. Ultramarines: Oxides: Insoluble pigments which are used to colour the oils: Food-safe dyes (sold as water soluble powders)…e.g. 125g of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) beads or pearls, 454g olive oil (preferably pomace grade but virgin or extra virgin will do). =), If you're a new soaper, you can also find other tips and tricks over at the TeachSoap.com forum. Is there an alternative to this oil that will give me a similar outcome? Thanks!!! CategoryBath & Body, Cold process soap. I use needle nosed pliers and rock ’em back and forth to help get them out after a few days of the soap being in the mold =). I have only made one batch of cp soap so far and it turned out great. I am not denying your assessment of the recipe…just wondering why the numbers on soap calc don’t reflect actual bar characteristics. Definitely! Is it just going to take a little longer to harden up or do I have to do something else to it? Thanks! If I can how will it effect the end soap (hardness & lather) Scott, Too soft? It is a liquid wax that acts very different than any other soap oils. I am starting to make powdered laundry detergent from scratch and have been using Dr. Bronner’s castile bar soap, I would like to start making my own castile soap from scratch to add to the laundry detergent. Cool to 40°C. I have looked and tried to find good recipes but there are so many! Mix up enough in a little water (except insoluble pigments) and add a bit at a time until the depth of colour you want is apparent. Sorry for that confusing last email. My question: is there an ideal room or outside temperature for making soap and particularly for curing the soap. Finally, when figuring the oil to lye ratio…I want to use 2oz of Brambleberry’s Oatmeal Milk & Honey Fragrance Oil, will those 2 oz throw off the lye ratio? I'm a novice CP soapmaker and I've been wanting to try new recipes but nervous to just make something up. Also, would I need to add a preservative if using goat milk? Definitely. Do not store your soap in a cold place. And then it evaporates out 15-20% of its weight during cure time. (my most favorite, tried and true, teach this in every class, really, really hard soap bar) 6 oz. -Becky with Bramble Berry. You can also follow my Pinterest boards here. Below you’ll find my cold process soap making video and all of the information you need to get started, along with the basic soap recipe that I’ve made dozens of times. DIY Crystal Soap Gift Set (with printable! Sorry – hit ‘return’ too soon. Good luck – and let me know how it goes! Thank you for your answer. I don’t modify the recipe. Is that the same as making claims or is it just providing information about the product say from the websites of the suppliers we get the product from? Hi Anne Marie, I made a batch of soap using the “Lots of Lather” recipe, superfatted at 5% with hempseed oil. While I haven’t […], […] I mentioned in my last post, I used Anne-Marie Faiola’s Lots of Lather recipe, resized for my […], […] not anything too fancy, I used Soap Queen’s Lots of Lather recipe (resized for my mold). I like cold-process soap most as my everyday soap. I would love to try your Moisturizing recipe and have everything but Jojoba. I use about .7 oz. Gloves and a face mask are also recommended, but good ventilation is vital. When you have a lard soap recipe, hot processing creates a bar of soap that is completely saponified and ready to use, if necessary, as soon as it is cooled and cut. How about humidity? Pour the soap batter into the mold. I have only worked with CP soap and I would love to marble my cp soap. Once again, thank you. pure olive oil ; 4.45 oz. Adding extra oils and butters will also contribute to leaving that extra on your clothing. You could do Tallow if you're not opposed to animal fat. You can email it to me at info at brambleberry dot com. This is because of the high water content and caustic nature at that stage. A balloon whisk & rubber/wooden spatula, or similar. =), I adjusted the ‘lots of lather’ recipe to fit a 2lb mold here’s what I used: Avocado Oil For more on Cold Process soaping, check out the following resources: Have a question about this blog post? Palm Oil … you won’t find in stores, I don’t think. If I wanted to substitute the 2 ounces of Vitamin E oil which oil should be use? If you replace the 170g of palm oil by 170g of shea butter, you should use 129g of lye. water ; Weigh the sodium hydroxide into a lye-safe container and set aside. I purchased a liquid blue, however, no color change.I usually use green clay for color and the bubbles are still white, but I would love to try another color that my bubbles will not change colors. 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